【新闻麻辣烫】
"普拉达又双叒叕翻车了!这次是米兰秀场上的'印度风'凉鞋被扒皮——明明长得和百年历史的Kolhapuri手工凉鞋一模一样,却连个'印度制造'的标签都懒得贴。气得印度网友直呼:'你们奢侈品大牌来印度'偷灵感'就算了,现在连装都不装了?'最搞笑的是,普拉达事后赶紧组队去印度小镇'朝圣',活脱脱上演了一出'奢侈品界的文化赎罪记'!"
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**Prada's India misstep highlights luxury brands' cultural appropriation woes**
**普拉达印度风波凸显奢侈品牌文化挪用困境**
Italian luxury label Prada faced backlash in June after its Milan runway showcased toe-braided sandals strikingly similar to India's handcrafted Kolhapuri chappals without crediting their origin.
意大利奢侈品牌普拉达6月因米兰秀场展示与印度手工Kolhapuri凉鞋极为相似的趾编凉鞋却未标明来源而引发争议。
The 500-year-old footwear tradition from Maharashtra state's Kolhapur town finally earned acknowledgment after protests, with Prada stating it's open to"dialogue with Indian artisans".
来自马哈拉施特拉邦科尔哈普尔镇的500年制鞋传统最终在抗议声中获得承认,普拉达表示愿意"与印度工匠对话"。
This week, Prada representatives met Kolhapuri artisans and local commerce officials, potentially paving way for future collaborations.
本周普拉达代表会见了Kolhapuri工匠和当地商会官员,可能为未来合作铺路。
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**Chronicle of cultural borrowings**
**文化借用编年史**
Prada joins a long list of global brands accused of appropriating South Asian designs without attribution.
普拉达只是众多被指控挪用南亚设计却不署名的全球品牌之一。
Earlier this year, Reformation and H&M faced heat for outfits resembling South Asian garments, while Dior recently showcased mukaish-embroidered coats without mentioning the Indian metalwork technique.
今年早些时候,Reformation和H&M因服装类似南亚服饰遭批,而Dior最近展示的mukaish刺绣外套却未提及这项印度金属工艺。
"Giving credit is design responsibility 101," says Voice of Fashion editor Shefalee Vasudev, calling neglect"cultural disrespect towards regions brands claim to love".
"署名是设计责任的基础,"《时尚之声》主编谢法利·瓦苏德夫称这种忽视是"对品牌声称热爱的地区的文化不尊重"。
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**India's luxury market paradox**
**印度奢侈品市场悖论**
Despite projections of India's luxury market doubling to $14bn by 2032, Technopak chairman Arvind Singhal notes most brands still don't view it as a priority.
尽管预计印度奢侈品市场到2032年将翻倍至140亿美元,但Technopak董事长阿尔温德·辛格哈尔指出多数品牌仍不将其视为重点。
"Prada means nothing to most Indians. Demand is limited to the ultra-rich with hardly any first-time buyers," he observes.
"普拉达对大多数印度人毫无意义。需求仅限于超级富豪,几乎没有首次购买者,"他指出。
Delhi designer Anand Bhushan adds:"India being a production hub doesn't justify cultural lifting without context."
德里设计师阿南德·布尚补充:"印度作为生产中心并不能成为脱离背景挪用文化的理由。"
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**Generational shift underway**
**代际变革进行时**
Tata CliQ Luxury editor Nonita Kalra counters that younger, sophisticated Indians are reshaping luxury consumption beyond stereotypes.
Tata CliQ Luxury主编诺尼塔·卡拉反驳称,更年轻、成熟的印度人正在超越刻板印象重塑奢侈品消费。
She attributes Prada's gaffe to"genuine oversight" but identifies the industry's"biggest blind spot" as lack of diverse leadership.
她将普拉达的失误归因于"真正的疏忽",但指出行业"最大盲点"是缺乏多元化领导层。
"Their appreciation for Indian heritage is real, but they need local voices to avoid missteps," Kalra concludes.
"他们对印度传统的欣赏是真实的,但需要本地声音来避免失误,"卡拉总结道。